Water into Wino

A tasting and two bottles...

I managed to motivate myself to Astor Wines last Saturday for a 10 winemaker event representing the natural wines of Jenny and Francios. This store has thrown down some large tastings in the past and I was looking forward to this one. While I'm not one to complain or tell a store how they should run their business, but I thought that Astor just didn't take advantage of the colossal space they have. They put three winemakers at their new tasting bar and the other seven shoulder to shoulder at one not so long table. It wasn't a recipe for a personable wine tasting that invites questions and conversation. Anyway since I don't speak French I probably wouldn't have learned much anyway.

While I was there I had to pick up a couple bottles. In my search for cool climate grape based wines, I chose a Lemberger from Washington State vineyards that Dr. Vino has recommended in the past. My addiction to south american wines lured me into buying a cheap Syrah from Uraguay as well. It wasn't more than two days later I had gone through both and now I can't wait to get my hands on one of them again.

Shooting Star Blue Franc 2004
Yakima Valley, Washington ($15)

Jed Steele bottles his Yakima Valley Lemberger (aka Blaufrankisch) in California under his Shooting Star label. Finding the name to be lacking in marketability, he choose the Blue Franc title and included a French Franc note to grace the bottle. I've had a couple bottles of Lemberger recently, one from Austria and another from the Fox Run Winery in the Finger Lakes.

Ruby red color. Earthy aromas of red berries and spice. Juicy mouth feel with supple tannins. Very soft and round. This really reminded me of Cab Franc on the nose and Syrah in flavor with Carmenere like sweet tannins. Anyone who reads this blog should know this is the kind of wine I would get excited about. The finish is average, and I think the lack of oak limits the length, but the ripe fruit and spice make up for it. My grade: A-

Monte De Luz Syrah 2005
San Jose, Uruguay ($7)

Only my second wine from Uruguay, this bottle was only $7 and I figured it was worth a shot. The other wine I had from this country was a Tannat and Cab Franc based blend. It wasn't anything to write home about so my expectations for this one in the same price range weren't high.

Smoky dark fruit aroma and purple in color. The flavor was similar to an over ripe Merlot and extremely one dimensional. Slightly acidic with obvious heat on the finish. I didn't even come close to finishing this wine. My grade: C-

Rooster vs Quail > Syrah under $10

From time to time I am called upon to bring a couple bottles to a social event with friends. In our circle we average about 3/4 bottle per person, down from the careless one bottle average of 2005. My unmatched enthusiasm encourages purchases of similar wines at the same price point. Let's face it... side by side tastings are the best way to really pinpoint what we like about a particular wine.

Since the wines are drank with dinner, we don't really spend a lot of time analyzing, but I do try to get a general consensus on which one was preferred. These wines most likely aren't decanted, and the order I drink them may not be ideal. Some may have been paired dreadfully or followed a whiskey or two.

My first head to head review is influenced by my recent interest in new world Syrah. I've had a couple $20 bottles that I'd drink again, but I can't afford that regularly. So I'm on the look out for a cheap Syrah in which I can rely. I want to stay away from obvious high alcohol stuff and the Aussie stuff for now. Both of the following wines are $10 or under.

Covey Run Syrah 2003
Columbia Valley, Washington State USA ($9)

I keep getting pleasant surprises from Washington wine. This Syrah was balanced and juicy. The nose didn't impress but it was overall a satisfying table wine that I can drink without frowning. The combination of a quick finish and moderate acidity makes for a good food wine. This winery is a mega producer and their $6 and $7 Merlots and Cab Suavignons are quaffable and easily found.

Hahn Estates Syrah 2003
Monterey County, California USA ($10)

Concentrated plum and toasty oak on the nose. This deep dark purple wine has lip smacking tannins and and some plum fruit. The oak steals the show as the fruit struggles to compete for tongue time. The finish is much longer than the Covey Run with a spice that ads complexity to an otherwise dull wine. It also seemed to dish up a little more heat. I remain on the look out for those "cool climate" Syrahs in California under $15.

My preference was for the Covey Run Syrah. Its juiciness and overall balance leaves nothing to regret for $9. A good friend of mine was moved by the finish of the Hahn Syrah though. She has been preferring bigger wines lately and her favorite was the the Monterey wine.

Columbia Winery Syrah 2002

The latest varietal to fall victim to my obsessive and compulsive personality is Syrah. Sadly most of the stuff I've had has been jammy Shiraz from Australia, and I do remember there being a critter or two on the labels. Since some of the most sought after wines in France are Syrah based, and seeing how the most complex examples of this wine are grown in the cooler appellations of the world, I figured it might be fun to throw my not so expendable income at this grape for a while and see what's worth drinking. That is, of course, without dropping the big money for the Cote Roties and Hermitages. I've heard that California is producing some kick ass Syrah, but what don't they produce over there? So I am more interested in the Washington State, Canadian, Chilean, and even some New York examples.

Columbia Winery Syrah 2002
Columbia Valley, Washington ($13)

This 100% Syrah is from four different vineyards in the Columbia Valley. It's 13.5% alcohol and it was released in fall of 2005. There were 6500 cases produced and I assume that with a little searching most people could get their hands on a bottle. Apparently the winery was founded by 10 University of Washington professors that thought they could grow vinifera that would survive the harsh winters of the area and deliver quality over time. Apparently they were right. I found this bottle for $13 but I've seen it online for as much as $19.

Deep ruby red color. The nose is generous with dark red fruit and anise. It's silky texture is full of ripe fruit and some smokiness that is in perfect balance with the other flavors. This wine got better with time and I think it even improved over night as I took another run at it the next day. It's an extremely masculine wine that is great for sipping or would do well with roasted meats. It makes me want to try more Syrah from Washington State and maybe pick up a few bottles of this as well. My grade: A-

What's this Chatter about?

Chatter Creek Cabernet Franc 2001
Washington State, Alder Ridge Vineyard ($18)

My Cabernet Franc problem has taken me to another corner of this great land we call America. I haven't been trying the California Francs because of their high alcohol content and I just don't want a Franc that is as big as a Cab Sav. I picked this one up in western NY at Premier Liquors which has a huge selection for those Buffalo Bill loving, chicken wing eating, all around good folk up there. I'm sure I'm the only dork that gets excited about a Washington State Cab Franc in that area.

Aromas of tea and green vegetables. Palate struggled to show ripe fruit, but a hint of plum and some blackberries peeked around the licorice and cocoa flavor. The finish was uneventful and bland. Was very similar to the Arizona Ice Tea with plum and ginseg. Too bad I didn't pay the $1.50 for an ice tea instead of the $18 for this bottle. Turns out my love of Cabernet Franc may be not so unconditional. The ones with Long Island accents seem to be the most enjoyable so far, along with the one Friulian bottle I've had. My grade: C+

Snoqualmie Cabernet Merlot 2000

Snoqualmie Cabernet Merlot 2000
Washington, Columbia Valley ($12)

Let me first mention how proud I am to be listed as #69 on the wineblog ratings chart that was posted at alawine.com. To even be listed is flattering, but to be #69, wow...I must be doing something right, lol. Yesterday during my marathon blog entry I opened a bottle hijacked from the many gifts my mother receives every Christmas. It's not something I'd buy or even stop to look at, but if it's free, I'll try it happily.

This Columbia Valley blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot is from Snoqualmie Vinyards in Washington State. Dark red color and full bodied. Mouth drying tannins smoothed out some with time after opening. Nothing fancy or memorable. Dark blackberry and currant fuit with some chocolate notes. Some spice on the finish yet not as complex as I would have liked. My grade: B-