Water into Wino

Mauro Molino Nebbiolo 2005: An Italian Inspiration

Mauro Molino Nebbiolo 2005
Langhe, Piedmont, Italy ($16)

There are some foods that demand a thoughtful wine pairing to give them the recognition they have earned. Champagne and caviar comes to mind and so does Chablis and oysters, not to mention wine pairing at its simplest with Cabernet and steak. We often figure out the menu and then choose a wine to go with it.

In my wine philosophy it’s just as important to decide what you’re drinking first and decide what to cook based on that. More than not it’s an Italian wine that motivates my recipe searches for a compatible Italian inspired meal. If I’m not using the web as a reference my go to Italian recipe guide is Mario Batali’s Molto Mario cookbook.

Having already made a meat ragu the previous night, an unopened bottle of Mauro Molino Nebbiolo 2005 rallied my attention span long enough to make some homemade gnocchi to hold the aforementioned ragu. Since any time-intensive cooking needs wine for drinking I opened up this bottle while prepping the potatoes.

In the glass the wine immediately showed its Italian roots with dried cherry, chalk and tar aromas. While showing extremely ripe aromas it still revealed a lively strawberry fruit leather note along with some seductive dark chocolate and cinnamon notes. The nose just hit my sweet spot as its what I look for in Italian reds.

On the palate it didn’t miss a beat with its gravelly tannins and fresh acidity. There was just enough flesh to keep it mouth filling and full enough to play well with its rustic feel. The finish was surprisingly delicate with just enough fruit and fine tannic grip to keep it from being too thin.

Paired with my gnocchi the overall meal was dynamite. The delicate gnocchi with rich sauce was the perfect partner for this Nebbiolo. The combo was as good a meal as I’ve had in years and the wine itself made a case for me buying another bottle as soon as I can. For $16 I don’t even want to know what other people are drinking when they can find a wine like this for the same dough.

International Night Portuguese Style

Portugal was the destination of choice for my girlfriend's weekend "International Night" extravaganza. I was stoked by the possibility of finding inexpensive wines that most people would never bother drinking, and in most cases, never even locate. I also like to geek out on music for these dinners and this time I sparred no expense and abused my itunes account with another impulsive purchase. The music of the night was Guitarra Portuguesa by Carlos Paredes.

Quinta de Pancas Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Portugal ($12)

The evening started with some olives, breadsticks, and dates accompanied with this Portuguese Cabernet. Old world comes to mind when describing this bottle. Medium body and well balanced with dark fruit. While lacking in the common overripeness of most cabs, it secured my attention with rustic earth accents and a graceful finish. Since most of the Portuguese reds I've had are native grape intensive, this was new to me.

Senorio de Sarria Crianza 1999
Navarra, Spain ($12)

The soup course, sopa de couves, was from Leite's Culinaria, a website run by David Leite which features some tasty Portuguese recipes as well as other cuisine. It is mainly chorizo, kale, and potatoes. My pairing reference book suggested, amongst others things, a Spanish red from Navarra. This tempranillo based crianza boasted soft as a baby's ass tannins and an extremely gentle structure of red berry fruit and cedar. Along with the chorizo, it was pairing perfection. This wine whispered old world and I loved every sip with the soup.

Esporao Reserva 2005
Alentejo, Portugal ($10)

From the same website came Porco con Ameijoas a Alenteniana, or in gringo terms, pork with clams. Vinho Verde would have been satisfactory, but my friend went above and beyond again with a couple bottles of a Portuguese blend of native Roupeiro, Arinto, and Anttao Vaz. Living in the Portuguese capitol of Long Island, or Mineola, has payed off several times over. This white was delicious as well. Full bodied with a sexy buttery oak flavor that added depth and complexity, this wine finished was a hint of sweetness. Another perfect pairing.

Dessert included Pasteis de Coco, coconut-custard tarts. What's Portuguese night without Port? I didn't want to find out so we ended with an Osprey's Dominion Port. Not bad at all.

Tastes of Abruzzo

If I counted every bottle I have drank in the past three years and looked for a pattern or frequency within the results, the Montepulciano D'Abruzzo grape would stand out. This usually inexpensive, versatile, and easy to find wine has found its place next to many a pizza and homemade meat sauce in my home. Some have been surprisingly satisfying for the price, while others have been just plain nasty. Although I do have to say, that age had something to do with the worst ones I tried, as this grape is usually meant to be drank in its youth. Don't be surprised if you see quick reviews of Montepulcianos here frequently because my desire to find an affordable table wine adds to this obsession.

Lilla Montepulciano D'Abruzzo 2003
Italy, Abruzzo ($8)

Dark red almost purple color. Nose consists of blackberries with a touch of forest. Full blackberry and black cherry flavor. Smooth texture and a soft herbal spicy finish. More complex than I expected. Overall an impressive bottle considering the price and varietal. I would buy this again. My grade: B

Bove Roggio Antico Montepulciano D'Abruzzo 2003
Italy, Abruzzo ($7)

Ruby red color. Dark berries on the nose, not as fragrant as the Lilla. Full bitter cherry flavors. Crisp fruit flavor with very soft tannins. Very clean finish. No complaints with this bottle, although it doesn't really have any qualities that separate it from the average Montepulciano. My grade: B-

To kick off my first reviews of the Abruzzo region, I am posting a recipe from my great grandmother from the Cesacastina area of Teramo.

Zuppa di Crespelle con Romano

Crepes (recipe can be doubled):
4 eggs - beaten
1 1/4 cups water
1 cup milk
1/2 tsp salt
1 1/2 cups romano cheese
pepper
2 cups flour

Mix ingredients. Heat a 8-inch, non-stick pan until hot and brush with olive oil. Reduce heat to medium and pour 2 to 2 1/2 tablespoons batter into the pan. Shift pan to distribute evenly. Cook 60 seconds, until pale golden, and then flip. Cook on other side 20 seconds and remove to a plate. Continue the process until all the batter has been used.

Stock:
ham bone or ham hock
2 large onions
3 large ribs of celery
3 large carrots
2 cans chicken broth
3 quarts water
salt
pepper

Cook for 2 hours, slow simmer. Pour over crepes to serve. Add pepper and parsley to taste.