Water into Wino

Revisiting An Old Flame: Copertino Riserva 2001

Cantina Sociale Copertino Riserva 2001
Puglia, Italy ($18)

One of my philosophies in wine drinking is quite simply “Life is too short to drink the same wine twice.” Now there are a few exceptions. One is when you are bringing a bottle to a tasting or dinner where the purpose is to pour wine for other geeks. Another is when you buy several bottles and cellar them for future enjoyment.

Vintage variation is a third reason to drink a familiar wine and was ultimately my intention for buying this Copertino. I’d originally had the 1999 vintage in 2005 and was sold on the rustic reds of the Salento region. Copertino is known for rich smooth reds made from Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera grapes.

Since this bottle was going on 10 years of bottle age I was slightly hesitant to give it a try but my appreciation of the 1999 vintage solidified my investment. The store employee also said he looked it up and it was still drinking well before offering me a part time job at the store.

Brick red color with primary aromas of barnyard, tar, stewed red fruit and spice. In the mouth it was still showing good fruit with structure and tannins. The age was pretty obvious as it was extremely smooth and graceful leaving any rusticity only to be found in its aroma and flavor. The finish was long and dirty in a good way.

This bottle totally reawakened my desire for southern Italian reds. It seems like too many I’ve had recently are more new world than old with only ripe to overripe black fruit and vanilla to show. These older bottles from smaller producers still have the charm and distinctive Italian earthiness I expect from Salento. I’d buy this one again…to show friends of course.

Castello Monaci Maru Negroamaro 2007

Castello Monaci Maru Negroamaro 2007
Puglia, Italy ($14)

I got into the lusty wines of Apulia while I was living in NYC. It started with Salice Salentino before I found some amazing Copertino, both of which are based on blending Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera grapes. The combination of ripe and stewed fruit aromas with rustic grainy tannins won me over on reds from Italy’s heel.

At some point in the last few years the number of wines simply labeled Negroamaro have increased in number. The name of the grape itself translates into “bitter black” which clues you in that this is not for every palate.

After a couple years hiatus from Apulian reds, I decided to take home a bottle of Monachi Maru Negroamaro 2007. Why this producer? Well I received a kick ass Primitivo from the same producer last year and was impressed enough to remember them this time around.

Aromas of plum, black cherries, tobacco and vanilla made this wine extremely straightforward. It didn’t help that its juiciness and overall smooth feel didn’t leave anything to the imagination. Not a poor wine, but just very California in style.

I expected much more earthy notes and some  rusticity on the palate. It feels like this wine is trying to be something other than what it wants to be, but I do think this would be a great stepping stone wine for your Zin or Cab drinkers. Ultimately though someone looking for an Italian wine that wants for those raw and lusty reds from southern Italy might be disappointed with this particular bottle, especially at $14.

Terre di Epicuro Negroamaro 2002

Terre di Epicuro Negroamaro 2002
Rosso del Salento Italy, Apulia ($7)

My constant search for a quality table wine has inspired another $7 purchase of this 100% Negroamaro from Salento. I frequently make meat ragu as well as pomodoro sauce for dinner. Typically I consume Montepulciano or an affordable Chianti with these meals, leaving the pricier Italian reds for special occasions or simply for weekends. I found this bottle at a liquor store right around the corner from me. I've probably drank around ten bottles of this wine in the past, so my expectations are moderately high and usually met.

This last bottle just didn't meet those expectations. The earthy, dark red fruit aromas were present. The color was the same, that being a deep red almost purple color. The taste on the other hand was tart. The bitterness that earned this grape its name was a little too harsh. The fruit flavors were hidden. Did I just get a bad bottle? Has the poor 2002 growing season finally affected this vintage pushing it past its drinkable window? Has my palate evolved and I'm just now noticing the details of this rustic wine? The truth has to be in there somewhere. For now I may hold off on this wine. My grade: C

Cantina Sociale Cooperativa Copertino Riserva 1999

Cantina Sociale Cooperativa Copertino Riserva 1999
Italy, Apulia ($13)

My WBW #16 entry had the excitement of a bottle rocket, that in my opinion, didn't do justice to the Southern Italian region of Apulia, but this wine does. A 95% blend of negroamaro and 5% Malvasia nera, it is similar to the more recognizable Salice Salentino, but this comes from the town of Copertino. This town has gained the reputation of producing some of the most respected premium wines of Apulia.

A ruby red color makes this wine look appetizing enough. The nose is full of dark cherries and currants. It is medium bodied and dry with a supple texture. I love the earthiness of this wine that really shows itself in the finish. A great wine with food or on its own. My grade: B+

Wine Blog Wednesday #16

Voluntas Uva di Troia 2003 Italy, Apulia ($9)

Judging and buying a wine by its cover or label in this case was the theme this month. Ignoring the the descriptions, price, and any staff recommendations that accompany a wine on display is harder than it should be. The label here did draw me in with an illustration of a knight sipping a glass of red wine with some huge white bird perched on his helmet. It lacked the vintage, the region, and any recognizable varietal. I was drawn to this one because it stood out from the usually not so fancy lables in the Italian wines section. Seemed "new world" to me in style. Turns out that the Uva di Troia is a grape I've never had and the fact that it was $9 made this an easy decision. I will not leave any indeginous Italian grapes untasted!

This red wine was very arromatic with dark berries, herbal tea, and tobacco. I only wish the taste was as complex as the smell. An initial layer of dark fruit dried my mouth a little too quickly before dissolving into mediocrity. This bottle just wasn't able to define itself. Finished dry and bland. Perhaps this wine could have been decanted or aged a bit more. Next time I realize I am in the Apulia section, I should ignore the label design, and look for what I know I like about the region. This includes negroamaro grapes, malvasia nera, and primitivo based wines.

I should mention that I opened this bottle after a couple Dewars, Thai food, two beers, and a visit to Coldstone Creamery. Just to be sure I am going to try again tomorrow during lunch. Tonight it gets a C- grade.