Water into Wino

Three Pinot Noirs that Will Make You Bi-Coastal

Is there room in the US pinot noir market for real cool climate pinot noir? Will racier, lighter New York and Ontario grown pinot noir ever establish itself as the alternative to the warmer climate versions?

I hope the answer is yes, but that may be wishful thinking in the near future. The only thing I can be sure of is that northeastern growers and winemakers are making better pinot noirs every year thanks to finding the best sites, planting the right clones, meticulously managing vineyards and using obsessive sorting methods in the winery.

With the hopes that we could get a taste of some of the best east coast cool climate pinot noir available, my friend and I opened three bottles of the good stuff. Each wine has won major awards or has been praised by wine writers. Each is around $35-$40 in price and are relatively small production examples from the 2007 vintage.

The first bottle we tasted was the Heart & Hands Barrel Reserve Pinot Noir from the Finger Lakes. Sourced from three different vineyard sources in the region, this wine won best pinot noir at the 2009 New York Food & Wine Classic and received rave reviews on the New York Cork Report.

In the glass it's ruby red in color with aromas of raspberry, cherry, chocolate and vanilla. As it opened up it took on what I lovingly describe as a birthday cake aroma that reminds me of fruit filled cake with butter cream frosting…very vanilla. Where this wine showed best was its fleshy mouth-feel and round structure. It had a graceful balance and finish. Not terribly complex in aroma and flavor though as we didn’t get much funk, earth or spice.

The next wine tasted was Freedom Run’s 2007 Estate Pinot Noir which recently won a double gold medal at the American Fine Wine Competition. Made from young vines in the Niagara Escarpment AVA, this wine was the first effort from the winery. There were only 95 cases produced. I have been working with this winery for three years now and this has given me a unique perspective on pinot noir in the Niagara region.

In the glass it shows a deep red hue with aromas of dark cherry, cranberry, spice and forest floor. On the palate this one shows a full body mouth filling texture reminiscent of Sonoma versions. Its voluptuous mouth-feel and deep flavors show the masculine side of pinot noir while still clearly showing the complexity of a Burgundian style. With this riper style comes a lack of racy acidity that prevents this wine from being bright which could alienate some drinkers.

The last bottle tried was from Le Clos Jordanne in Niagara, Ontario, a Vincor-Boisset venture that is only making pinot noir and chardonnay. They are clearly obsessed with terrior since they make all single vineyard wines with wild yeast vinifying them the same across the board. The winery has received great press from Pinot Noir writers that have tried their lineup but their wines aren’t currently available in the USA. The bottle we opened was from the Claystone Terrace Vineyard on the Twenty Mile Bench.

With a crimson red color, this wine shows aromas of dark cherry, blackberry, chalk and spice. It had lively acidity on the palate with the red fruit showing particularly strong. This wine felt very tight still as if was wound up in a coil about to lash out. I'm not sure what a mineral core is but this wine would be the first I'd use that description with. The finish was the most impressive of the three with firm yet chalky tannins. Overall this wine just left an impression of sophistication.

These three wines revealed a number of similarities and differences. All are fine examples of how pinot is improving in the northeast as each had fresh fruit flavors without any sign of overripe notes. Alcohol was never an issue in any of them and they all had enough acidity to keep them balanced.

While I don’t think any should be marketing or pushed as Burgundian, Californian or Oregonian, they should be recognized as being cool climate wines. I wouldn’t be ashamed to pour these along with the finest west coast pinots to show the direction we’re heading with pinot noir in the northeast.

Wild Rock Cupid's Arrow Pinot Noir 2007

Wild Rock Cupid's Arrow Pinot Noir 2007
Central Otago, New Zealand ($20)

Pinot Noir is a grape that I’ve had a hard time really warming up to. The hype, the fuss, the price…all of these make me wary of buying a bottle I  haven’t already enjoyed. My affinity for searching for those “best buys” doesn’t lend itself well to the “heartbreak grape” either. I have found some success though in the Bio Bio Valley in Chile, Friuli in Italy and Burgenland in Austria though.

This Wild Rock Cupid’s Arrow Pinot Noir 2007 found its way into my glass primarily because it recently graced the cover of Wine Spectator. I know that’s amateurish, but I find New Zealand, specifically Central Otago, an exciting region. Just under $20 it still has the potential to be an overachiever for the price.

I opened this bottle and found the aroma to be the most interesting thing about this pinot. With loads of bright red fruit and forest undertones, it brought that earthy quality I look for. As it opened a bit, raspberries and sage began to come forward as the primary aromas. The mouth-feel was light and supple with fruity, bordering on juicy flavors. Though with such soft tannins, it lacked the lengthy finish I was looking for.

What stood out the most in this wine was what it lacked in minerality. With a delicate grape like pinot, I’d expect some minerality to keep things interesting, especially on the finish. Its earthy sage-like aromas were its strong point and I would definitely recommend it just because of that. Will I buy it for myself again? Probably not. My grade: 2.5/5

Movia Vila Marija Merlot 2005

Movia Vila Marija 2005
Brda, Slovenia ($15)

Shortly after Long Island turned me on to merlot, a friend mentioned a bottle he had had while dining at Felidia restaurant in NYC. The sommelier recommended a merlot from the Friuli region of northern Italy. Having been blown away by the wine, he managed to salvage the label and pass along the good word to me. I have since-found a couple other producers from that area which make merlot in the same minerally, lightly tannic, and vibrant style.

These wines aren't easy to locate as even wine boutiques that only carry Italian wines may only have one such bottle to choose from if any, with retail prices in the mid twenty dollar range. Movia, the Slovenian producer of this bottle is situated on the border of Friuli and Slovenia. They practice organic and biodynamic winemaking while producing only about 13,000 cases a year. This bottle was on sale for $11 (from $15) at my favorite local wine store. This 2005 bottling is a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and pinot noir, surprising since it is labeled as merlot.

Ruby red color and bursting with cherry and raspberry aromas. This wine jumps out of the glass and greets you with a big hello. It has a silky mouth-feel that dances on the tongue while gaining the attention of every taste bud on my palate. What makes this wine so memorable is a streak of minerality that quickens the pulse and sharpens the senses. The finish is clean and satisfying albeit not all that long. It leaves me thirsting for another sip and wondering what a case discount would come to. My Grade: A-

Update on last post

I found this link the day after my last post on Pinot Noir on the Niagara Escarpment, USA. Business must be booming for Warm Lake Estate to be expanding its plantings by 50%.

Quick taste of Warm Lake

Warm Lake Estate has literally put the Niagara Escarpment AVA on the map. Banking on a climate that has been compared to Burgandy, they have found investors from around the globe to plant 45 acres of pinot noir. The winery has been open for only a few years but has been successful at distributing their wine throughout the state and beyond. Their location on the sloping bench of the escarpment was meticulously picked to provide an ideal terroir for pinot.

My first visit to this winery was almost two years ago and was regrettably not a memorable event. Last friday we stopped by while driving through the area and I'm glad I did cause it was an eye opening experience. Along with the tasty 2005 vintage were three single vineyard wines available to taste and buy. The point of course is to showcase the differences of each vineyard separated by soil type. I've studied up on the area's geography enough to know that the Otis and Rhinebeck wines are named after the loam soil on which they are planted. The other bottle, whose name escapes me at the moment, consisted of their newest planting and was my favorite despite the vines only being 3 years old. Each was extremely Burgundian in style and worth the hefty penny they are charging, and I only say that because the area is young and the other wines tend to be inexpensive.

Overall it was an inspiring day driving around the country up in good ole Niagara County, south of Lake Ontario. Even with snow covered roads and blustery winds this wino wasn't slowed down enough not to get a few tastes in with his new fiance and soon to be mother in law.

Avila Pinot Noir 2003

Avila Pinot Noir 2003
Arroyo Grande AVA, San Luis Obisbo, California ($13)

Most serious pinot drinkers would be horrified to drink a $13 bottle of that little thin skinned grape. I, on the other hand, am thrilled to experiment with these hit but most commonly miss bottles. I don't often find interesting bottles under $15 from California but it took my local store being sold out of my favorite cheap Chilean pinot for myself to buy this one I knew nothing about.

Avila is the second label of the Arroyo Grande producer Laetitia. The appellation of Arroyo Grande Valley includes a 16 mile long valley in San Luis Obisbo County. The climate is moderated by coastal fog and Pacific breezes and Avila lies at the colder northern region of the AVA. This winery focuses on value wines and offerings include Chardonnay, Merlot, a Rhone Blend, Syrah, and a Cabernet. There were 10,000 cases of this Pinot produced.

Solid purple color that caught me by surprise. Floral aromas, but strawberry and cherry aromas dominate. The silky texture was another surprise and made me think the wine was under priced. There were some funky earth flavors that complimented as well. This wine had enough structure to stand up to my mustard crusted pork tenderloin and I wish I hadn't used a cup of it for my red wine reduction because it was that good for the dough. My grade: B

Vina Porta Pinot Noir 2005

I'm back on my Chile kick after a few short days. This time it's Pinot Noir that I'm hunting down. Seems like every time I go to the wine store, there's another Pinot selection from Chile. Most of the decent ones I've seen are from the Bio-Bio Valley which is considered one of the most southern regions in Chile. Because of it's cool climate, Pinot seems to do well along with Sauvignon Blanc.

Vina Porta was established in 1954 by the Gutierrez family who arrived from Spain and it evolved into one of the first boutique wineries in the area. After a larger company acquired the winery in 1997, the winery developed a plan to utilize the different growing regions and plant accordingly to the terroir. This includes the Aconcagua, Maipo, Rapel and Bio-Bio valleys. Among the grapes planted are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Carmenere, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir. This bottle I drank is grown at the Negrete Estate Vineyard.

Porta Winemaker Reserve Pinot Noir 2005
Bio-Bio Valley, Chile ($13)

Bright ruby color with delicate aromas of strawberrys and roses. Light bodied and supple with soft red berry flavors. There is a pleasing tart cherry note that really rounds out the flavor. The mouth feel is very elegant for such an inexpensive wine. For some reason the shape of a diamond comes to mind when I think of the flavor of this wine. This is the first Pinot I've drink for under $20 that I want to buy again. Luckily my random around the corner liquor store has a few bottles. My grade: B+

Argyle Pinot Noir 2003

Argyle Pinot Noir 2003 Oregon, Willamette Valley ($23)

I have to admit... I am not the hugest Pinot fan. Could be due to the fact that I've never spent over $20 on a bottle of Pinot Noir. Could be that the latest buzz over Pinot is a turnoff. So many reviews, articles, and suggestions. A lot of hype and a lot to live up to. After combing through my limited cellar the other day I decided I needed a Pinot in there just because I may just need one to pair witht that perfect pork loin someday. I chose a Willamette Valley winery, paying just over $20. The man at the store said that this one was a popular gift. Argyle has a recognizable name, I guess, so why not try what a typical Pinot from the area tastes like. They did have a $45 bottle called "The Nuthouse" from the same winery, but I don't tend to pay that kind of cash for a wine I haven't tried.

This bottle is sealed with a screw cap for starters. I stay away from them usually, unless its a cheaper bottle. I think I'm too impulsive for screw caps. That extra time it takes to uncork a bottle might delay my decision to open it, which is a good thing as Martha would say. Very dark red color. Aroma was full extremely floral with plum and raisin. This was a "big" Pinot. Full bodied and over powering. Wasn't nearly as delicate as I thought Oregon Pinots were. Very jammy. It mellowed out a bit with time but it was still unbalanced. Not a bad wine, but not what I was looking for. My grade: B-

Rex Goliath Pinot Noir "Giant 47 lb Rooster" 2003

Rex Goliath Pinot Noir 2003 California, Central Coast ($10)

Picked this one up at one of three neighborhood liquor stores I frequent. I thought I had seen it reviewed by another wine blogger but I didn't remember the verdict. Surprisingly has a smell of maple syrup as well as red berries. Strawberry and cherry palate with good acid ratio. Very drinkable smooth texture. Finish was quick but satisfying. My grade: C+