Water into Wino

Osprey's Dominion Cabernet Franc 2002

Osprey's Dominion can take much of the credit for my awakening to Long Island's North Fork wine country. Sure it took a couple of my good friends to pour there for a few seasons to find it, but it really did open me up to several new things. It all started with the 2000 vintage Cabernet Franc and evolved into day long picnics with live music, friends, and a huge selection of wine.

Last season Osprey's was building a new tasting room so we didn't hang out there for their live music and tranquil scenery as much as I'd like to. This didn't stop us from stopping by to taste how their Meritage blends were evolving and to pick up more Cab Franc. They probably have the widest selection of reds and whites on the Island, with about 90 acres of grapes planted. In 2005 they were declared winery of the year at the NY State Wine and Food Classic and they are no stranger to double gold and best in show awards.

The standouts for me have been the reds of course, the rose, Fume Blanc, the Sauvignon Blanc, and maybe even the Johannisberg Riesling. The list goes on and on and something they have should satisfy anyone that goes. They welcome picnics on their property and it's as easy as walking up to the outdoor bar and bringing an open bottle back to your group. On busy weekends, it may get crowded with families and kids playing, but its always relaxing.

Osprey's Dominion Cabernet Franc 2002
North Fork, Long Island, New York, USA ($24)

The 2000, 2001, and 2002 Cabernet Francs have been among the best in the region. They have been known to mix in a splash of Merlot to round it out some but the 2002 is pure Franc. The wine spends 12 months in French oak and the alcohol weighs in at 13%.

Dark ruby red color. Aromas of cherry, raspberry, and bell pepper. Textbook mouth feel as far as I'm concerned. A slightly tart food friendly acidity is obvious and welcome. This is not for the fruit bomb lovers out there as the fruit is subtle and in lockstep with the spice and herbal qualities. What really separates this wine from similar ones is its long delicate spicy finish. My grade: B+

Finger Lakin Good Cab Franc

My passion for all things Cabernet Franc hasn't let up in the time I've been grossly neglecting this blog. Although I've tasted a few that made me rethink it as being my favorite varietal. It's just so damn hard to balance out the acidity and fruit with the green characteristics of most of the cool weather francs I consume. These thoughts began after I drank a deliciously large and juicy one from Castello di Borghese on Long Island. Unlike any other I've drank from that area, it was dark and mysterious, complex and relentless on the finish. The kid over at Vintage New York endorsed it as one that will "rock my world" and in some ways it did, though without the herbal notes I associate with the grape. Was I beginning to prefer the more ripe and extracted style of this wine?

Ravines Wine Cellars Cabernet Franc 2005
Keuka Lake, Finger Lakes, New York ($18)

Turns out the answer is no. Jay over at The Wine Chicks pointed me to a Finger Lakes Cab Franc from Ravines Wine Cellars recently. This bottle from the 2005 vintage had everything I love about this varietal. Cherry and blackberry flavors mixed with spicy herbal notes combined with oak aging that amplifies the complexity and length in the finish. Since I haven't tried too many Finger Lakes Cab Francs, this one easily takes the prize as the best I've tasted. That being said, I look forward to trying Dr. Frank's version also from the east side of Keuka Lake.

New York State Wine Harvest Update

Word is that it is a good harvest at New York State Vineyards this fall. This article mentions that the Finger Lakes Riesling and Cabernet Franc crops are superb.

Forty Dollars a Day

"Best Red in Show" in the Sunlight

It's amazing how the value of a dollar can change within the coarse of the day. During a recent trip to the Northfork of Long Island, my opinion of spending $40 on a Cab Franc went from a skeptical "yeah right" to a somewhat slurred "put it on the Visa." My anticipation of visiting Jamesport Vineyards had been growing all season. A "Best Cab Franc" award at the New York Food and Wine festival only fueled my interest and I'm not even going to mention the Wine Advocate blurbs about Jamesport's wines. Osprey's Dominion 2001 Cab Franc won the same "Best Red" and "Best Cab Franc" the previous year and I love that wine enough to give it credit for my current addiction to the varietal.

After insisting we stop at Jamesport first during our recent visit I was amped to get a taste of their reds. Because we went on the weekend the tasting room was overwhelmed with buses and "weekenders." No clean glasses and my refusal to taste in plastic denied my taste buds for a little while longer, but when I finally got my flight I wasn't disappointed at all. The 2001 Merlot Reserve was lush and concentrated with cherries and plums. It had everything I have come to love Long Island wines including a perfect balance of fruit and oak with that terroir of the North Fork. The acclaimed Cabernet Franc 2004 was just as good as the hype that surrounds it. Aromas of red berries and smoke with a elegantly soft mouth feel and a palate that whispered strawberry. The finish was delicate and subtle. It didn't have the spiciness that I expected with only a slight herbal quality yet still delicious and unique to the region.

My only disappointment with my experience there was the prices. Both of these reds were priced roughly at $40. Similar Cab Francs at Osprey's Dominion and Corey Creek Cellars that are equally as satisfying are almost half the price. With my current budget combined with the amount of wine I buy in general, a $40 wine makes its way into my home a few times a year. Long story short...I passed on a purchase of the Cab Franc at Jamesport.

Key Lime Pie at EON in Southold

After lunch at EON (duck salad and key lime pie - Shinn Rose and Corey Creek Cab Franc) in Southold and tastings at Castello di Borghese our journey led us to Shinn Estate Vineyards. Shinn is a small winery that practices sustainable agriculture. Their tasting room is a tiny room in a renovated old barn that oozes with quaintness. The owners are on hand to pour and answer questions, and even ring you up after you splurge on a few bottles. Stand-out wines tasted were "Wild Boar Doe" 2004 and their 2005 Rose. I was bummed when I found out they weren't pouring their Cab Franc, but after some of my charming nosiness, co-owner Barbara Shinn indeed let me know there just happened to be an open bottle behind the bar. From what I remember there are only 1 1/2 acres of cab franc planted there and only 170 cases made of this 2004 vintage which has a price tag of around $40. For some reason I didn't mind shelling out the cash for this bottle. Maybe because there's not that much of it going around, maybe it was the organic vineyards or the humble tasting room, or maybe it was because it resembled a mom and pop business that made my decision easy. In hindsight it may have been all the alcohol, but after being wooed by the ambience of the North Fork, I found myself completely doing a 180 and heading home with a $40 bottle that I'm sure will just cause me anxiety when I decide when to open it. Cheers to that!

Shinn Estate tasting room

Eveningside Vineyards

Anyone who has read this blog for more than ten minutes probably recognizes my fondness for Cabernet Franc. A few weeks ago my girlfriend and I escaped a power outage in Queens to stay with family in Niagara Falls for a few days before a trip to Northern Michigan. Since we were heading to a cookout at a relative's house in "the country" -- Cambria more specifically -- we decided to stop at a few of the wineries on the Niagara Escarpment. On a previous trip to the area I purchased a Cabernet blend of Cab Sauv and Cab Franc from Eveningside Vineyards, a new winery in that area. So I was looking forward to visiting, tasting, and maybe purchasing a bottle or two.

Eveningside Vineyards is the result of owner Randy Biehl's desire to create a winery where vinifera grapes would benefit from the location between the escarpment and Lake Ontario. In January of 2000 he befriended Kevin Latter, vineyard manager at Cave Spring Cellars in Ontario, and volunteered at his vineyard. In the meantime, Randy searched for 18 months for a proper location for his own vines before finding an old fruit tree and concord grape vineyard on 21 acres in Cambria. In 2001 he began planting Chardonnay, Riesling, and Cabernet Franc grapes. Kevin Latter provides guidance to Eveningside as well as fellow Cave Springer and winemaker Angelo Pavan who contributes as the consultant wine maker.

Our visit to the vineyard was extremely positive. Tasting in a barn as opposed to a building that looks like a banquet hall is always better in my opinion. Although there's only a few varieties to taste there, unlike most of the wineries in the area where native grapes and hybrids join vinifera selections, each was enjoyable. I'm a fan of the Cave Spring wines, especially their Riesling and Gamay, and Eveningside's wines do seem like they have the same care put into them. We ended up buying the Chardonnay and leaving somewhat disappointed that the Cab Franc is not available for tasting yet. There was a 2004 Cabernet that was light in body with berry fruit flavors and a clean finish that I liked, but since I had the 2003 I choose to wait to purchase the 2004, a mistake in hindsight.

Eveningside Vineyards Cabernet 2003
Niagara Escarpment, New York ($18)

Just last night I decided to open the 2003 Cabernet to drink on its own to just sit back and ponder how my favorite varietal does in my hometown area. This wine is 57% Franc and 43% Sauv. With its light purple color and silky body it looked delicious. It sure had the bell pepper smell of a Cab Franc with hints of cedar and pepper. It had cherries on the nose but not overwhelming as it almost took a backseat to the pepper. Most people tend to find the green aroma or flavor of this grape to be negative, but I find it to be another contributing piece of the puzzle I have become a fan of. Anyway, the wine had a great silky mouth feel and a crisp finish. I believe that this wine is a good omen as to how Cab Franc can grow in this area when done right. Since I've enjoyed this grape grown in the Finger Lakes and Ontario, I've been hoping that it could find a home in the Escarpment too. I'm not sure where the Cab Sauv grapes were grown that were blended in this wine though as I should have asked when I was there. This fall Eveningside will release a Cabernet Franc from the 2005 vintage. I will be first in line for a bottle.

It's what you don't buy that counts.

Pindar Cabernet Franc 2000 New York
Long Island (Peconic) ($15)

The way things have been going lately, I should probably just classify my blog as "wines not to buy." I don't like writing negative criticisms and I try to avoid passing sweeping judgments of a winery based on a single bottle. In this case I feel I should write something because I believe that people do make judgments of Long Island wines by the wine they can get their hands, which in most cases, is Pindar. Oh, and yeah, my girlfriend called me out on the subject with her last comment here. She gave me a lot of shite about bringing home an undrinkable wine with her hard earned $10.

Pindar Vineyards has a huge selection of wine. You can buy their wines on national online wine stores. If a local liquor store has one Long Island vineyard from which to choose, it's usually Pindar. I've visited the winery a few times and can't complain about their free tasting practices. It has the largest tasting area of any I have been to. When my girlfriend and I have been there, we are usually shoulder to shoulder with people who act they're on a frat party field trip. Anyway, the last time we were there, it was loud. Many high fives were given. I think I almost saw a couple cat fights break out -- seriously. We brought a friend that we know from our days at "The U" (of Miami) that was more interested in the pouring chick's low cut jeans, which left nothing to the imagination, than the wine. Needless to say we had polished off a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc ( yum! ) at Osprey's Dominion and biked ourselves from winery to winery already.

So. I had several of their reds and came to a conclusion that they all had this certain taste that identified them as Pindar. It's hard to pinpoint, but there was something that bled into each of the wines I tasted. The one I enjoyed the most was a non-vintage red blend called Pythagoras, a blend of Cab Sav, Cab Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. It's low in tannins and seems to have a complexity that I do not expect in a medium to light bodied non-vintage blend. I found the Pythagoras for $10 at my "take fifty steps and make a right for fifteen more steps" NYC liquor store and was pleased with the price to enjoyment ratio.

The other night I went back to the same store with a $10 purchase on the mind. Turns out they had a Pindar Cabernet Franc 2000 for the same price. It lists for $15, so I thought that if it tasted half as good as other L.I. Cab Francs I've had, it would be well worth it. Surprise surprise.. I was wrong. It was turned. Poured it down the drain and opened a bottle from the cellar. It could be that the 2000 just can't be expected to age gracefully. Maybe the liquor store's storage methods leave something to be desired. Maybe it's just a bad wine, but I doubt it. Chances are you've already visited Lenn's Long Island vines, wines, and dines blog, but if not, go there forthwith to open your mind to the best L.I. has to offer.

Since I keep trying wines I've never had, I often take a chance and skip the wine I know I will enjoy. I guess it's just the risk I take for science. Not only that, my garage sale mentality of "hey, this bottle is only half its retail price" is not fit for the wine store. As I write this I am drinking a Red Hook ESB beer. At $1 a bottle it's so satisfying. Next week Astor Wines has a 25% off sale on Italian, German, French, Austrian and Greek wines. I am going to help them clear out some wines for their new store that opens next month. Any suggestions?

The suspect...

Does this look corked to you?

Truth be told I've been lucky in the past. The number of bottles I've opened with a bad cork can be counted on one hand. So I was surprised when my Lamereaux Landing Cabernet Franc 2002 had evidence of cork mutiny. The wine didn't seem to make its way out of the other end, but it didn't look normal either. There appeared to be little grains of sand on the inner part of the cork too. Since the wine didn't seem hopelessly spoiled I proceeded with my plan. Home cooked brisket with buttered egg noodles and peas to complement the wine.

Lamoreaux Landing Cabernet Franc 2002
New York, Finger Lakes ($17)

I've had this wine a few times since I first tasted it at Vintage New York. So my expectations were high. Blackberry aromas with a touch of pepper were present along with a muted smokey background. I don't remember it having that smoke to it in the past. It was that stale smoke you smell on your clothes after a night around the bonfire. It could even be mistaken for oak aging, but I do believe it was coming from the cork. The smooth tannins and refreshing medium bodied style of this wine was still showing, but the overall bright fruit and lingering spice of this grape stayed home with a bad case of the cork that was going around. So overall, not bad, but just not what I was counting on. On the bright side it's a good excuse to head over to Vintage New York again for a few tastes.

Instant karma smacks me in the face!

I have written a few times mentioning the fact that screw caps are not for me. My respect for tradition and my impulsive nature to open a wine without thought or planning combine for my dislike of these caps. Even when it comes to opening a coke or a beer for that matter, I prefer the bottle opener. Twist off is for the advil I take the next day. This past weekend may have changed my perspective.

The first incident might not even have to do with the closure. I had a bottle of Pinot from the Niagara Escarpment that I was saving for a rainy day. With a slight chance of rain last Friday, I decided to try it. Before opening I noticed there was a lot of sediment floating around the bottle. It didn't seem to settle on the bottom as easily as it should have. Whatever, I'll decant and press my luck. After opening I noticed a cloudy appearance in the decanter. The aroma of this wine was powerful... extremely floral with even a hint of coconut. There seemed to be this spike of aroma that was very off putting in there. A sudden kick that knocks your head back. After hours of breathing, it didn't subside. It may have even gotten worse. The cork looked fine and it wasn't the smoky sulphur smell I associate with a corked bottle. Long story short, I dumped the rest of it after drinking a glass and making contorted facial expressions with every sip.

Let me apologize now for not remembering whose wine blog pointed me to an LA Times article explaining tainted wines and their causes. If anyone does know, please leave a comment so I can give credit accordingly. The causes include the everyday corked bottle, a bacteria called Brettanomyces, severely high acid levels, and high sulphur levels. The first bacterial explanation (brett) seemed possible in my case. High levels of acid might also be a cause. I do remember thinking of a nail polish or even worse, a nail polish remover scent. The only cause I can truly rule out is the sulphur explanation.

My girlfriend and I emailed the winemaker just to inquire into what he thought the problem might have been. It's a small winery and I'm sure he'd like to know if there's a batch of bad wine turning people off of his winery. So we wait. If anyone has had an experience like this, please comment.

2005...that's SO last year!

New Year's Eve used to be the holiday that I would live vicariously through others. If I was with family upstate, I'd watch the hardcore winter weather folk endure a bone chilling night in Niagara Falls, Ontario, attend a live music event overlooking the falls. Way too cold for my blood. I'd eventually turn on Dick Clark and rock the night away with a bottle of Champagne. Living in New York City has made this a much more social holiday, creating several memorable moments already. This year wasn't as wild as last year's tree grinding affair, and spontaneous dancing didn't rear its ugly head. All joking aside, it was a great New Year's Eve. Well dressed friends, good eats, and a strategic approach to each food pairing let us ring in the new year with style.

Codoniu Pinot Noir Brut Cava Spain ($15)

My best friend and I kicked off the night with a glass of Knob Creek Bourbon served neat. Then, with a little help from Mario and Joe, we followed with an aperitif called "The Merchant of Venice." Paired with "good luck" egg rolls, this mixture of Prosecco, a splash of pomegranate juice, and a pinch of cinnamon was a hit. Our first seated course was lobster bisque paired with Codoniu Pinot Noir Brut Cava. This was a near perfect match as the delicate bisque and refreshing Cava succeeded in awaking the taste buds.

Osprey's Dominion Johannisberg Riesling 2004
New York, North Fork ($15)

The salad that followed was equally as delicious and refreshing. A mix of baby greens, sliced almonds, dried cranberries and goat cheese paired with an Osprey's Dominion Johannisberg Riesling aroused the taste buds not affected by the bisque. The tangy cheese in combination with the sweet cranberries and the almost sour grapefruit flavors of the Riesling was mouth watering to say the least. This wine tastes completely different than the Canadian Rieslings I've enjoyed of late, but it still had that deeply floral nose. When paired with something that feeds off its youthfully acidic palate, this wine enhances and awakens the senses.

Osprey's Dominion Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2000
New York, North Fork ($40)

The main course consisted of filet mignon, twice baked potatoes with cheddar cheese and chives, steamed asparagus with shaved parmigiano reggiano, and sauteed mushrooms and onions. My friend was generous enough to open an Osprey's Dominion Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2000 to pair with the steak. This wine was awesome. Full of fruit, licorice, and spice. I am so used to heavy California Cab Savs that are over oaked and overly tannic. This New York Cabernet had incredibly soft tannins that finished with an equally soft spice. Perfect compliment to the filet.

Altos de Luzon 2003 Spain, Jumilla ($17)

Luckily the second bottle for the main course pairing wasn't shabby either. Seizing on what was probably human error, we picked up the 2003 Altos de Luzon at our local wine store for only $11. While not as softly rounded as the Osprey's Cab, this blend of Monastrell, Tempranillo, and Cabernet Sauvignon was an aggressively hedonistic match for the steak. While still tasting youthful, it packed a powerful one-two punch of fruit and spice that finished long with all the Catholic guilt of the 2002 vintage. Darker, fuller, and more intense, this was a perfect last bottle to uncork for 2005.

At midnight we popped open a bottle of Piper Heidsieck Champagne. Tasted like, well...Champagne. By midnight my taste buds had seen sharper moments. Homemade cream-filled chocolate cupcakes rounded out the meal with a cocktail my friends and I call the "Red Russian." Basically its a white Russian made with raspberry vodka. How I didn't get the spins I'll never know. Apparently I had a Samuel Adams seasonal Lager before bed, but the only evidence of that was a couple empty beers bottles. There were no reliable witnesses at that point of the night.

And for those of you keeping score at home it went bourbon, sparkling wine, white wine, two red wines, Champagne, vodka cocktail, and then beer..then Advil. Cheers!

Dr. Konstantin Frank Cabernet NV

Dr. Konstantin Frank Cabernet NV
New York, Finger Lakes, Keuka Lake ($17)

If you live outside of New York state, you may not have ever heard of Dr. Konstantin Frank. That's alright because he probably hasn't heard of you either. Apparently he was truly a pioneer in making Vitis Vinifera (European grapes) possible in the Finger Lakes region. Long story short, he believed that a lack of proper rootstocks, not the cold climate, was the reason for failure of Vitis Vinifera in this area. He and winemaker Charles Fournier found a "hardy" rootstock onto which they grafted Vinifera grapes and started a revolution. He quickly earned a reputation for his quality Rieslings, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gewurstraminer, and even Cabernet Sauvignon. A few hundred medals later, Dr. Frank was inducted into the Wine Spectator "Hall of Fame".

My love of reds and interest in trying the wines of my home state led me to pick up this non vintage bottle of Cabernet consisting of 54% Merlot, 26% Cab Franc, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is light-medium bodied, well balanced, and a great food wine. Subtle flavors of blackberry and chocolate are evident, with a touch of pepper. Clean finish that is not as long as I would want for the price, but perfect for the dinner table. This bottle is of limited release, and isn't the best example of the quality wine winning critics over from this winery. My grade: B-