Water into Wino

A Duo of Non-Chilean Carmenere

Wines made from the Carmenere grape have always been fun for me. It’s one of the first grapes that I became obsessed with that no one else in my circle of drinking buddies knew anything about. It seems like I never got sick of throwing down ten bucks for a rich, fruity, spicy wine that outshined other bottles at twice the price.

With time and a more developed palate come downsides and my appreciation of most cheap Carmenere has diminished as I generally prefer wines with more acidity. I’m noticing overripe flavors more these days and generally bulk made wines are as exciting as drinking Coors Light or Bud. I know there is outstanding Chilean Carmenere in the $20-$40 price range but hey, there’s a ton of great wine around the world in that price range, so I don’t often taste at that price point.

Luckily a few bottles made their way into my possession that renewed my curiosity in Bordeaux’s forgotten grape. First off I found a bottle of Inama Carmenere Piu 2006 from the Veneto Region of Italy at Vino Aroma in Williamsville NY. Only a few days later my friends from Long Island surprised me with a bottle of Osprey’s Dominion Carmenere 2007, which is, the only New York State grown Carmenere I know of.

I recently opened up both of these bottles back to back and was blown away by the differences among them and overall when compared to Chilean Carmenere.

The Osprey’s Carmenere had a familiar tone that I got with Long Island reds and this winery specifically; that is a tight core of fruit with fresh acidity and a gentle rusticity. The blackberry aromas were pure and spicy with hints of black cherry and tobacco. There was a polished feel to this wine that gave it a universal appeal while making the case that Carmenere can work as well as Cabernet Franc on Long Island, especially in warm years like 2007.

The Inama Carmenere Piu 2006 was a different wine entirely. On the nose it showed much more funk and chocolate notes with its fruit presence of plum and black currant taking a back seat to the barnyard, smoke and tar aromas. The mouth feel was simply stunning with rustic tannins and smooth acidity that filled out the palate while sticking around long enough to leave a delicate chocolate tootsie roll meets black fruit finish.

Fruit loving drinkers will appreciate the Osprey’s for its pure fruit and luxurious structure while those that seek rustic more eccentric flavors may find the Inama to be just what they are looking for. Personally, I loved both for their original take on the grape. Both went beyond the jammy overripe traits I often find in lower priced versions. I’d love to get these wines together again and pour them with Chilean versions in the same price range and see how they go over as it looks like I’m not anywhere near done being excited about this grape.

Three Pinot Noirs that Will Make You Bi-Coastal

Is there room in the US pinot noir market for real cool climate pinot noir? Will racier, lighter New York and Ontario grown pinot noir ever establish itself as the alternative to the warmer climate versions?

I hope the answer is yes, but that may be wishful thinking in the near future. The only thing I can be sure of is that northeastern growers and winemakers are making better pinot noirs every year thanks to finding the best sites, planting the right clones, meticulously managing vineyards and using obsessive sorting methods in the winery.

With the hopes that we could get a taste of some of the best east coast cool climate pinot noir available, my friend and I opened three bottles of the good stuff. Each wine has won major awards or has been praised by wine writers. Each is around $35-$40 in price and are relatively small production examples from the 2007 vintage.

The first bottle we tasted was the Heart & Hands Barrel Reserve Pinot Noir from the Finger Lakes. Sourced from three different vineyard sources in the region, this wine won best pinot noir at the 2009 New York Food & Wine Classic and received rave reviews on the New York Cork Report.

In the glass it's ruby red in color with aromas of raspberry, cherry, chocolate and vanilla. As it opened up it took on what I lovingly describe as a birthday cake aroma that reminds me of fruit filled cake with butter cream frosting…very vanilla. Where this wine showed best was its fleshy mouth-feel and round structure. It had a graceful balance and finish. Not terribly complex in aroma and flavor though as we didn’t get much funk, earth or spice.

The next wine tasted was Freedom Run’s 2007 Estate Pinot Noir which recently won a double gold medal at the American Fine Wine Competition. Made from young vines in the Niagara Escarpment AVA, this wine was the first effort from the winery. There were only 95 cases produced. I have been working with this winery for three years now and this has given me a unique perspective on pinot noir in the Niagara region.

In the glass it shows a deep red hue with aromas of dark cherry, cranberry, spice and forest floor. On the palate this one shows a full body mouth filling texture reminiscent of Sonoma versions. Its voluptuous mouth-feel and deep flavors show the masculine side of pinot noir while still clearly showing the complexity of a Burgundian style. With this riper style comes a lack of racy acidity that prevents this wine from being bright which could alienate some drinkers.

The last bottle tried was from Le Clos Jordanne in Niagara, Ontario, a Vincor-Boisset venture that is only making pinot noir and chardonnay. They are clearly obsessed with terrior since they make all single vineyard wines with wild yeast vinifying them the same across the board. The winery has received great press from Pinot Noir writers that have tried their lineup but their wines aren’t currently available in the USA. The bottle we opened was from the Claystone Terrace Vineyard on the Twenty Mile Bench.

With a crimson red color, this wine shows aromas of dark cherry, blackberry, chalk and spice. It had lively acidity on the palate with the red fruit showing particularly strong. This wine felt very tight still as if was wound up in a coil about to lash out. I'm not sure what a mineral core is but this wine would be the first I'd use that description with. The finish was the most impressive of the three with firm yet chalky tannins. Overall this wine just left an impression of sophistication.

These three wines revealed a number of similarities and differences. All are fine examples of how pinot is improving in the northeast as each had fresh fruit flavors without any sign of overripe notes. Alcohol was never an issue in any of them and they all had enough acidity to keep them balanced.

While I don’t think any should be marketing or pushed as Burgundian, Californian or Oregonian, they should be recognized as being cool climate wines. I wouldn’t be ashamed to pour these along with the finest west coast pinots to show the direction we’re heading with pinot noir in the northeast.

Lamoreaux Landing T23 Cabernet Franc 2007

Lamoreaux Landing T23 Cabernet Franc 2007
Finger Lakes, New York ($14)

My recent foray into winemaking has given me plenty of experience drinking unoaked Cabernet Franc as most of my batches are less than sixty gallons. I’m always looking for comparable wines as a reference so picking up this Lamoreaux Landing T23 Cabernet Franc 2007 was a no brainer. The aspiring vigneron in me wanted to know what this grape, grown in the Finger Lakes, in a hot vintage and left unoaked would taste like.

The wine revealed a light ruby color, with aromas of cherries and violets. After a few hours it began to show some bell pepper aromas as well, but certainly not right after uncorking. On the palate, this wine was soft and supple and this the first time I can call a wine “easy going” thanks in part to its round structure. Its gentle finish wasn’t complex but it did leave you wanting another sip.

There was also a definite perception of sweetness that I can only guess is the addition of residual sugar. This may have ultimately contributed to its feeling of balance but my interest in tasting a wine unobstructed by oak was now seemingly influenced by some “pushing” of the fruit.

From what I’ve read this wine has been quite popular and I can see why. It’s probably the same reason why so many Parisians enjoy a glass of cab franc at the local bistro. It’s easily quaffable, light and delicate enough to ponder on its own or with any number of food pairings. It makes me think that maybe in the future, restaurants in New York will carry local unoaked Cab Francs as house wines, served in a pitcher and drank from a tumbler. My grade: 2.5/5

Pellegrini Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

Pellegrini Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
Long Island, New York ($15)

The most surprising lesson I learned from Tastecamp 2009 is that Long Island reds have the ability to mature gracefully. My previous visits to wineries like Pellegrini or Raphael offered only a snapshot into their wines. Perhaps just one or two vintages of different varietals may have been available. Friday night’s Library tasting at Raphael was definitely an eye opening experience, one that bolstered my respect for the area’s well-made age-worthy reds.

This bottle of 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon from Pellegrini appeared on my local radar after a pioneer former wine blogger from thewinechicks let me know that a local liquor store had this wine on closeout for only $10. Her notes were simply, “It is exactly where it ought to be for the vintage,” motivating me to buy a bottle for a friend that gave me a few bucks to get him some interesting wine. Well let’s just say after last week’s L.I. trip I couldn’t help but recommend us opening it for a dinner we shared a few days ago.

It quickly opened up with an elegant nose of dark cherries and toast. There was a hint of bell pepper that was well within what I can still appreciate in a red. The mouth-feel was what made this wine memorable. The silky soft tannins accompanied by bright acidity struck all the right chords on my palate. The weight of the mid palate and finish were in harmony, making this glass of wine hard to put down. I would have never assumed this wine was still kicking, especially since the store had it on clearance. My grade: 3.5/5

Anthony Road Cabernet Franc-Lemberger

Cabernet Franc-Lemberger 2006
Finger Lakes, New York ($18)

Every once in a while I find a wine that seems like its been grown, made and marketed towards people like myself. On a recent trip to basically the only wine store I go to these days, I found a wine that simply made its purchase mandatory. No questions. No doubts. No checking of my finances before hand.

There are only a few grapes that could induce this kind of reaction. And if this isn't your first trip to my site, you probably know the that I'm talking about cabernet franc. But this bottle had even more going for it... 30% lemberger! And from the Finger Lakes to boot.

Anthony Road Winery is located on the west side of Seneca Lake. I've stopped in quickly on my way down to NYC in the past and was mildly impressed with the reds, which were really the only wines I tasted there. The fact is nothing really stood out compared to the other FL reds I tried that day. I had pretty much forgotten about them until last week when I found this bottle.

Why am I so thrilled about this wine? I just think these two grapes are suited for cool climate viticulture up here in the FL and Niagara USA Region. Rarely do you see them together and I'm not sure why that's the case. I know Fox Run Vineyards also bottled a blend of the two that won an award or two, but it wasn't available when I visited. So this bottle is my first introduction to the cab franc/lemberger wines of the FL.

Dark red color with aromas of raspberry and cherry. Lively mouth feel with decent weight to it for a cool climate red. Spicy tones of cherry and vanilla linger on the finish. I drank this with my meat ragu (and used it in sauce as well) the other night and loved every sip. I don't think it's big enough to just hang out with as it begs for food with its acidity. It also benefitted with decanting and/or a good rest over night. My grade: A-

Corey Creek Cabernet Franc 2002

Corey Creek Cabernet Franc 2002
Northfork, New York USA ($20)

The 2002 growing season must have been a good one for North Fork red grape growers. It was the 02' Osprey's Dominion Cabernet Franc that motivated a spending spree on Cab Franc that me to having a the franc filled wine fridge I have today. I've enjoyed a few others from the same vintage but nothing that excited me as much as the Osprey's. A few days ago I was reminded of my first innocent experiences with great Cab Franc.

Black raspberry and cherry aromas. I thought the color is slightly lighter than the Osprey's 02' and overall the tannins seem a bit smoother. The supple mouth-feel was simply delightful. It reminded me of the 04' Jamesport Cab Franc that critics went gaga over last year. The lengthy finish had a bit of vanilla and cedar and it just left a great impression. My grade: A

Wino has a baby! (website that is)

Even though this site hasn't seen many updates recently, my passion for wine hasn't diminished. I've learned that a home is a lot of work, and a home with 10 acres of land is a hell of a lot of work. In my spare time though I've been getting to know that the Niagara Escarpment area with fresh eyes and an open mind. There's so much to tell you about up here I could never put it in this blog. That's why I created NiagaraEscarpment.net. It's essential reading for anyone coming to the Niagara Falls area that appreciates wine, agriculture, and natural beauty.

Finger Lakes Dining at its Best

During my last trip to the finger lakes I was confronted with several important decisions. What lake are we gonna do today? East or west side? Start north, head back south towards the cottage? Bring lunch? Stop for lunch? Where to eat dinner? Are reservations needed? When choosing a wine country dinner they are a few musts. The restaurant must have an ecletic menu. A heavy Italian cuisine focused place will not cut it after a long day of drinking. It must have farm fresh ingredients since after all we are in the country. Lastly, the wine menu must have extensive local wine options at fair prices. After considering a few winery restaurants for our first night's dinner, I ended up taking some advice from the owner of Catherine Cottages, the place we stayed at in Montour Falls, just south of Seneca lake.

He emailed us a list of restaurants and luckily I read it in time to get reservations at the Stonecat Cafe in Hector, NY. What sold me on this place was its use of organic ingredients across the board. It's located on the east side of Seneca Lake and the view is spectacular. I had some short ribs and a triple cream on crostini appetizer. My fiance and our friends loved it and it was somewhat of a relief as we are used it to gourmet eats from our new york city days. This restaurant was spot on in everyway and satisfied all the must-haves I previously mentioned. I highly recommend this place to anyone that wants a delicious thought provoking meal when they are winding down from a days worth of wine tasting in the Finger Lakes.

Quick taste of Warm Lake

Warm Lake Estate has literally put the Niagara Escarpment AVA on the map. Banking on a climate that has been compared to Burgandy, they have found investors from around the globe to plant 45 acres of pinot noir. The winery has been open for only a few years but has been successful at distributing their wine throughout the state and beyond. Their location on the sloping bench of the escarpment was meticulously picked to provide an ideal terroir for pinot.

My first visit to this winery was almost two years ago and was regrettably not a memorable event. Last friday we stopped by while driving through the area and I'm glad I did cause it was an eye opening experience. Along with the tasty 2005 vintage were three single vineyard wines available to taste and buy. The point of course is to showcase the differences of each vineyard separated by soil type. I've studied up on the area's geography enough to know that the Otis and Rhinebeck wines are named after the loam soil on which they are planted. The other bottle, whose name escapes me at the moment, consisted of their newest planting and was my favorite despite the vines only being 3 years old. Each was extremely Burgundian in style and worth the hefty penny they are charging, and I only say that because the area is young and the other wines tend to be inexpensive.

Overall it was an inspiring day driving around the country up in good ole Niagara County, south of Lake Ontario. Even with snow covered roads and blustery winds this wino wasn't slowed down enough not to get a few tastes in with his new fiance and soon to be mother in law.

International Night Portuguese Style

Portugal was the destination of choice for my girlfriend's weekend "International Night" extravaganza. I was stoked by the possibility of finding inexpensive wines that most people would never bother drinking, and in most cases, never even locate. I also like to geek out on music for these dinners and this time I sparred no expense and abused my itunes account with another impulsive purchase. The music of the night was Guitarra Portuguesa by Carlos Paredes.

Quinta de Pancas Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Portugal ($12)

The evening started with some olives, breadsticks, and dates accompanied with this Portuguese Cabernet. Old world comes to mind when describing this bottle. Medium body and well balanced with dark fruit. While lacking in the common overripeness of most cabs, it secured my attention with rustic earth accents and a graceful finish. Since most of the Portuguese reds I've had are native grape intensive, this was new to me.

Senorio de Sarria Crianza 1999
Navarra, Spain ($12)

The soup course, sopa de couves, was from Leite's Culinaria, a website run by David Leite which features some tasty Portuguese recipes as well as other cuisine. It is mainly chorizo, kale, and potatoes. My pairing reference book suggested, amongst others things, a Spanish red from Navarra. This tempranillo based crianza boasted soft as a baby's ass tannins and an extremely gentle structure of red berry fruit and cedar. Along with the chorizo, it was pairing perfection. This wine whispered old world and I loved every sip with the soup.

Esporao Reserva 2005
Alentejo, Portugal ($10)

From the same website came Porco con Ameijoas a Alenteniana, or in gringo terms, pork with clams. Vinho Verde would have been satisfactory, but my friend went above and beyond again with a couple bottles of a Portuguese blend of native Roupeiro, Arinto, and Anttao Vaz. Living in the Portuguese capitol of Long Island, or Mineola, has payed off several times over. This white was delicious as well. Full bodied with a sexy buttery oak flavor that added depth and complexity, this wine finished was a hint of sweetness. Another perfect pairing.

Dessert included Pasteis de Coco, coconut-custard tarts. What's Portuguese night without Port? I didn't want to find out so we ended with an Osprey's Dominion Port. Not bad at all.