Water into Wino

Revolution Bandol 2003

Tour du Bon Revolution Bandol 2003
Bandol, France ($13)

As much as I dig the wine blogosphere I still get tremendous value from reading a few regular wine columns written by people that actually make a living with the pen. Eric Asimov’s work for the New York Times always puts me in the mood to go out and pick up something different and he recently wrote a piece entitled “A Sturdy Red for Winter” that got me excited about the Mourvedre grape.

I’ve drank many wines that use this grape as a building block and I’ve certainly had my share of jammy Spanish Monastrell in my day but I’ve never had anything from Bandol. When a wine writer like Asimov uses terms like haunting, savage and wild I’m on board to spend a few bucks and see what this region is all about.

I didn’t easily find what I was looking for until I cam across this Domaine de la Tour du Bon Revolution Bandol 2003 made up of 60% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache and 10% Cinsault.

Aromas of sour cherry, red plum, loam, red apple skin, licorice and cocoa were complimented by a touch of barnyard. The mouth-feel was all about the rustic granular tannins and balanced acidity. Full and fleshy on the mid-palate, it didn’t lose any momentum with its lingering bitter dark chocolate finish.

Simply put this wine was fun. Dark and rustic, dirty and ripe I just dug the style. I think the age helped this one out as I can imagine it being a little less charming if it was showing these tannins in their youth. Bandol is now officially on my radar.

Castano Monastrell 2005

Castano Monastrell 2005
Yecla, Spain ($9)

Talk about a easy drinking wine. This is a quintessential new world fruit driven bargain wine that should please a most of the people all of the time. My first experience with Yecla and Eric Soloman brand imports is this 100% Monastrell. Bodegas Castano has been bottling wines since 1980 and its vineyards benefit from around 3000 hours of sunlight a season. This is one of the most inexpensive wines from this family which seems to really concentrate on this varietal. I picked it up after I read Mr. Parker had praised its value and snatched up the last one at my store.

Every now and then I come away with the aroma of birthday cake. Maybe it's the frosting or fruit filling but something reminds me of it in certain wines. This one reminds me of a red cherry frosting you might get on a white cake. Along with that unconventional smell I did get some cranberry notes as well. Very aromatic overall. Medium bodied and well balanced, this wine isn't complex but certainly tasty. The finish is short but sweet. I'd bring this wine to a party or dinner.
My grade: B

Wrongo Dongo Red Jumilla 2004

Wrongo Dongo Red 2004
Spain, Jumilla ($8)

If drinking this is wrongo, I don't wanna be right. Pathetic attempt of a pun isn't it. I had seen this wine online in my Jorge Ordonez searches but never came across it in my local stores. I needed a wine for dinner last night that pairs with grilled skirt steak and found this bottle. From what I hear it's mostly Monastrell and from Jumilla, my favorite region of Spain of late. As you can see you just can't miss the label and the name is unforgettable. Funny thing is the guy at the store said it was a great Syrah. For $8, there could have been anything in there, I was still going to try it.

Blackberry aroma with a little spice. Dark cherry flavor with light tannins. It went very well with the delicious skirt steak and sweet potato wedges we ate for dinner. We also had a mixed green salad dressed with oranges that this wine didn't over power. For $8 this is a very good food wine. My grade: B-

Altos de Luzon 2002

Altos de Luzon 2002 Spain, Jumilla ($20)

It only took one glass of this to get me hooked on Spanish wines. While munching on some manchego cheese and serrano ham at Bar Jamon here in New York, and after a bottle of some impressive a spanish rose wine, the waiter suggested a wine of 50% Monastrell, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 25% Tempranillo. A few sips later I had the first feeling of guilt while drinking wine. It was sinfully good. I noted the name and vintage and went on a treasure hunt to buy my own bottle. I found one at Union Square Wine and Spirits and promised myself I would open it on a special occasion.

It wasn't long after that I was drinking at my place with friends and looking into my stash for a third bottle to open that night. Since this is a big wine, I figured it would be the perfect closer to a night of indulgence. We finished it quickly without any patience or any critical analysis. The next day I woke up guilty again. I barely remembered what I liked so much about that wine. The alcohol from a night of drinking had diluted any memories of the bottle. So the next day, knowing that I picked up one of the last bottles at the store, I ordered a bottle from wine.com, and once again saved it for another day.

That other day turned out to be last friday night. While decorating the Christmas tree, my girlfriend and I opened it up and let it breath for an hour. Dark ruby red color. Very toasty on the nose with ripe cherry and dark berry notes. Extremely full in tannins and alcohol. As time went by it balanced out well as it's flavor rounded out to a smooth combination of fruit and toasted oak leading to a long lasting finish. I compared the experience of this wine to "drinking the blood of a virgin." Felt like I was extending my life as a vampire would with a taste of blood. Sumptuous, velvety, and invigorating. My grade: A-

Finca Luzon Verde 2004

Finca Luzon Verde 2004 Spain, Jumilla ($9)

Another Jorge Ordonez selection. Another reasonably priced wine. Another happy wine drinker here. I am beginning to see a pattern. I believe that this winery is run by Juan Gil. I reviewed his Monastrell here recently. This too, is 100% Monastrell, from Jumilla, and achieving praise in the U.S. with wine critics. This bottle is certified organic too, so call a hippy and raise a glass to this vintage.

Verde means green in spanish, but there's nothing green about the taste of this wine. Purple in color and medium body. Blueberries, plums, and some floral notes on the nose. Crisp and clean with a full dark fruit flavor. It isn't as fleshy as the Juan Gil. Has a soft spice on the finish. This wine is very drinkable and satisfying. When I don't want the hedonism of the Juan Gil Monastrell, I will gladly drink this one. The organic aspect of this wine is a bonus. My grade: B

Bodegas Juan Gil Jumilla 2003

Bodegas Juan Gil 2003 Spain, Jumilla ($16)

This 100% Monastrell (aka. Mourvedre) is grown on 40 year old estate parcels of chalky soil in the Jumilla region of Spain. The arid climate and bed of limestone and rock makes for a low yield, intensly complex wine. The grapes are macerated for 25 days and aged for a year in French oak.

I have been on a Jumilla kick since I had a glass of Altos de Luzon (also Jumilla) at Bar Jamon in Manhattan. Luckily this bottle was just almost as impressive. Dark inky purple color with powerful blackberry aromas. The texture is fleshy and smooth. A full bodied taste of dark berries with a perfect alcohol/fruit ratio. Since the alcohol is 14.8%, it is impressive that I didn't feel any heat. The finish is long with just enough spice to keep it interesting. Looking at the two empty glasses and one empty bottle with a slight buzz, my girlfriend and I agreed that this wine was well above average. Luckily I have another bottle!
My grade: A-