Water into Wino

Rust En Vrede Estate 2001

Rust En Vrede Estate 2001
Stellenbosch, South Africa ($40)

There aren’t many large wine regions left that I haven’t stuck my nose into in the last several years. If you haven’t noticed I tend to get a bee in my bonnet to try everything I can get my hands on from a certain grape, country or region until I feel like I can actually have an intelligent conversation about it. With this approach intelligence doesn’t come cheap and I usually make sure that if I do through down more than $20 for a wine, it better be a good representation of the region.

Inspired by a fellow Niagara Region writer and her blog Stellenbauchery, I have been on a South Africa kick. Ideally I’m looking for wines labeled as Wine of Origin Stellenbosch as I am curious to know what unique flavors and styles are coming out of the country’s premier wine region. The minimum buy in for these wines is typically from $13 for whites and $20 for reds. Much cheaper South African wines can be found labeled as Coastal Region or Western Cape but those don’t interest me as much.

According to the bottle of Rust En Vrede Estate 2001, this winery has been acclaimed as one of the best in the world. Now I would ever buy it just based on that claim but I’d been tipped off that they are consistently one of the best producers of reds in the region. It also helped that this bottle was marked down from $40 to $30, most likely motivated by its age and the average buyer’s lack of interest in this bottle. I left the store thinking I’d found a deal though as it was one of those wines that you can’t just leave on the shelf.

This 2001 Estate is a blend of 53% cabernet sauvignon, 35% shiraz and 12% merlot. Aromas of strawberry jam, blackberry, dark chocolate, pepper and smoke. On the palate, it showed a lush fruit forward feel with fine-grained dusty tannins and a seamless balance from start to finish. Put quite simply this was a luxuriously ripe red with hints of old world complexity and style.

As a 9 year-old wine, this one still had it going on, fresh fruit, firm tannins and a delicate balance of acidity. It was probably the most serious red I’ve had from South Africa and I’d quite happily buy another to show off to other geeks. I’m even tempted to buy the 2000 Estate I found at another store.

Uva Mira Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Uva Mira Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Stellenbosch, South Africa

It’s obvious that South Africa makes some good wines under $12. I’m sure there are some decent cabernets, some appealing shiraz and a whole lot of pinotage. I also know without a doubt that their chenin blanc in that price range is some of the best.

The problem is I’ve been trying to find South African wines with the wine of origin label as Stellenbosch. These seem to demand higher prices and aren’t as easy to find as wines labeled Western Cape, Coastal Region or simply South Africa. With several of the Bordeaux inspired blends from Stellenbosch fetching over $40 a bottle in the US, I’m not having an easy time getting the gist of the higher end wines from the region.

Since my mind was set on getting a decent red in the mid twenty dollar range, I found myself stalking the shelves of the wonderland that is Premier Wines. After passing up a $60 red from Anwilka and a $40 red blend from Meinert, I found a $20 Merlot Cabernet blend from Uva Mira. With the stars aligned for a wallet-to-bottle connection - and by stars I mean a wine labeled as Stellenbosch, a decent score by Steve Tanzer and the importer being Michael Skurnik – I brought this bottle home.

Now normally a 52% Merlot – 48% Cabernet Sauvignon blend would bore the crap out of me but that wasn’t the fate of this one. Inky red color with huge ripe plum and black currant aromas, this wine screamed hot climate. Again that would normally be a turnoff but its secondary aromas of tobacco, chocolate and smoke held my attention.

This wine felt supple and full until its fine tannins got a hold of my mid palate. There was just enough grip to remind me that this isn’t a new world fruit bomb. It had an old world rusticity that I can’t get enough of. With a long finish that was possibly sprinkled with a bretty medicinal note, this wine showed a whole lot of character.

With an intriguing balance of new world ripeness and old world winemaking technique, this wine heads in a direction more regions should strive for. I’d like to think that generally South Africa as a region combines old and new world styles but I just haven’t drank enough yet to declare it so. However this Uva Mira blend was just what I was looking for…a $20 Stellenbosch wine that shows what makes the region unique ultimately revealing a sense of place.

Fantinel Merlot 2007

Fantinel Merlot 2007
Friuli, Italy ($10)

Chances are if you see me drinking merlot it’s from one of two places…Long Island or Friuli. Sounds snobby doesn’t it? It just might but be only because I think the merlot should be grown where it’ll just have enough heat to ripen.

I’ve had some memorable Friulian merlots in the past that bring bright red fruit and that rusticity that I find so appetizing in Italian reds. If you’re looking for reds from the region you’re not going an easy time finding them. When I was in NYC, I struggled finding them, let alone where I live now…in God’s country.

So whenever I find a merlot, cabernet franc or even a red blend from Friuli, I am tempted to bring it home. When I saw this bottle of Fantinel Merlot on sale for $10, I had to give it a go. The wine is actually called “Celebrate Life” because a dollar of every sale goes towards charity. I won’t bore you with the details but it has something to do with micro-algae.

With nothing but some red cherry, thyme and vanilla aromas this wasn’t the wine I was expecting. No tar, no forest, no shrooms, no leather…it just didn’t show any complexity. A medium-thin body and light tannins made me think this wine belongs in a carafe rather than a bottle.

In my limited experience making wine, I’d say that this one suffered from over-cropping of grapes. Not a bad wine though as it wasn’t flawed but I just wouldn’t want this one to be someone’s first merlot from Friuli.

Movia Vila Marija Merlot 2005

Movia Vila Marija 2005
Brda, Slovenia ($15)

Shortly after Long Island turned me on to merlot, a friend mentioned a bottle he had had while dining at Felidia restaurant in NYC. The sommelier recommended a merlot from the Friuli region of northern Italy. Having been blown away by the wine, he managed to salvage the label and pass along the good word to me. I have since-found a couple other producers from that area which make merlot in the same minerally, lightly tannic, and vibrant style.

These wines aren't easy to locate as even wine boutiques that only carry Italian wines may only have one such bottle to choose from if any, with retail prices in the mid twenty dollar range. Movia, the Slovenian producer of this bottle is situated on the border of Friuli and Slovenia. They practice organic and biodynamic winemaking while producing only about 13,000 cases a year. This bottle was on sale for $11 (from $15) at my favorite local wine store. This 2005 bottling is a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and pinot noir, surprising since it is labeled as merlot.

Ruby red color and bursting with cherry and raspberry aromas. This wine jumps out of the glass and greets you with a big hello. It has a silky mouth-feel that dances on the tongue while gaining the attention of every taste bud on my palate. What makes this wine so memorable is a streak of minerality that quickens the pulse and sharpens the senses. The finish is clean and satisfying albeit not all that long. It leaves me thirsting for another sip and wondering what a case discount would come to. My Grade: A-

Snoqualmie Cabernet Merlot 2000

Snoqualmie Cabernet Merlot 2000
Washington, Columbia Valley ($12)

Let me first mention how proud I am to be listed as #69 on the wineblog ratings chart that was posted at alawine.com. To even be listed is flattering, but to be #69, wow...I must be doing something right, lol. Yesterday during my marathon blog entry I opened a bottle hijacked from the many gifts my mother receives every Christmas. It's not something I'd buy or even stop to look at, but if it's free, I'll try it happily.

This Columbia Valley blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot is from Snoqualmie Vinyards in Washington State. Dark red color and full bodied. Mouth drying tannins smoothed out some with time after opening. Nothing fancy or memorable. Dark blackberry and currant fuit with some chocolate notes. Some spice on the finish yet not as complex as I would have liked. My grade: B-

Dr. Konstantin Frank Cabernet NV

Dr. Konstantin Frank Cabernet NV
New York, Finger Lakes, Keuka Lake ($17)

If you live outside of New York state, you may not have ever heard of Dr. Konstantin Frank. That's alright because he probably hasn't heard of you either. Apparently he was truly a pioneer in making Vitis Vinifera (European grapes) possible in the Finger Lakes region. Long story short, he believed that a lack of proper rootstocks, not the cold climate, was the reason for failure of Vitis Vinifera in this area. He and winemaker Charles Fournier found a "hardy" rootstock onto which they grafted Vinifera grapes and started a revolution. He quickly earned a reputation for his quality Rieslings, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gewurstraminer, and even Cabernet Sauvignon. A few hundred medals later, Dr. Frank was inducted into the Wine Spectator "Hall of Fame".

My love of reds and interest in trying the wines of my home state led me to pick up this non vintage bottle of Cabernet consisting of 54% Merlot, 26% Cab Franc, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is light-medium bodied, well balanced, and a great food wine. Subtle flavors of blackberry and chocolate are evident, with a touch of pepper. Clean finish that is not as long as I would want for the price, but perfect for the dinner table. This bottle is of limited release, and isn't the best example of the quality wine winning critics over from this winery. My grade: B-

Lenz Merlot 2002

Lenz Merlot 2002 New York, Northfork of Long Island

I am officially launching my first wine review, and I think I am already not living up to my pseudo mission statement introduction. My excitement got the best of me and I decided that my intention of pairing food and wine as best I could may not apply tonight. Earlier tonight I posted my first entry, and this left me with the urge of opening a bottle to celebrate. I didn't care if I'd have to drink it with leftovers from lunch. More specifically fried eggplant sticks from my local Italian restaurant, combined with homemade sauce from the freezer, shredded mozzarella, and grated reggiano.

My choice of Lenz Merlot 2002 from the Northfork of Long Island was less to do with the food pairing as it was with the appreciation of what living so close to wine country has done for my taste buds. Ever since a couple of good friends started pouring wine on the weekend at a Northfork winery, I have got to taste wines I would normally not come into contact with. My merlot experiences of the past were always with California merlot that I always associated with dark full bodied red wines that left me thirsty and ultimately sweating from the heat or spice on the finish. The handful of merlots I have tried on the Northfork seem to be much more drinkable to me. Something about the light body or the brighter flavor that makes me inclined to search for these when in the market for merlot.

My visit to the Lenz Winery was an enjoyable one. I was greeted by a passionate employee that gave me a detailed description of each wine. I tasted their reds and was impressed with the quality of each. In general they seemed to be more complex than the other merlots I have tasted in the area. Their commitment to aging their merlot for 2 years in French oak may contribute to this. I remember trying three Merlots..the 2002 Merlot, the 2000 Estate Merlot, and the Old Vines Merlot. Each was enjoyable, but the 2000 Estate which was the middle priced of the three, was most to my liking. Although, since I was looking to find wines that I can drink often and without hesitation, that won't break my bank, I ended up with the $16 2002 Merlot.. the cheapest of the group.

Perhaps it's fitting that I'm drinking it with my "make the best out of leftovers night" dinner because it seems to be a good comparison to my experience. The wine is dark ruby red. It smells of raspberries and dark cherries, and my girlfriend thought she may have smelled violets. Cherry and plum stood out on the palate with smooth tannins and a subtle finish that was quicker than I remember from the vineyard tasting. It also wasn't as well rounded as I expected. Turns out I might have expected more out of this wine because of the experience I had with their wines a whole.

The estate and old vines vintages had the good qualities of this wine plus the complex finish that aging their best fruit in oak for 2 years can bring. The wine was enjoyable but I know next time I am faced with the decision of which to buy at Lenz I will pay the extra bucks to get what I really liked at the winery tasting. Overall satisfying, but I know it could have been better with the best primary ingredient available in the kitchen or vineyard in this case.