Water into Wino

Mauro Molino Nebbiolo 2005: An Italian Inspiration

Mauro Molino Nebbiolo 2005
Langhe, Piedmont, Italy ($16)

There are some foods that demand a thoughtful wine pairing to give them the recognition they have earned. Champagne and caviar comes to mind and so does Chablis and oysters, not to mention wine pairing at its simplest with Cabernet and steak. We often figure out the menu and then choose a wine to go with it.

In my wine philosophy it’s just as important to decide what you’re drinking first and decide what to cook based on that. More than not it’s an Italian wine that motivates my recipe searches for a compatible Italian inspired meal. If I’m not using the web as a reference my go to Italian recipe guide is Mario Batali’s Molto Mario cookbook.

Having already made a meat ragu the previous night, an unopened bottle of Mauro Molino Nebbiolo 2005 rallied my attention span long enough to make some homemade gnocchi to hold the aforementioned ragu. Since any time-intensive cooking needs wine for drinking I opened up this bottle while prepping the potatoes.

In the glass the wine immediately showed its Italian roots with dried cherry, chalk and tar aromas. While showing extremely ripe aromas it still revealed a lively strawberry fruit leather note along with some seductive dark chocolate and cinnamon notes. The nose just hit my sweet spot as its what I look for in Italian reds.

On the palate it didn’t miss a beat with its gravelly tannins and fresh acidity. There was just enough flesh to keep it mouth filling and full enough to play well with its rustic feel. The finish was surprisingly delicate with just enough fruit and fine tannic grip to keep it from being too thin.

Paired with my gnocchi the overall meal was dynamite. The delicate gnocchi with rich sauce was the perfect partner for this Nebbiolo. The combo was as good a meal as I’ve had in years and the wine itself made a case for me buying another bottle as soon as I can. For $16 I don’t even want to know what other people are drinking when they can find a wine like this for the same dough.

A Duo of Non-Chilean Carmenere

Wines made from the Carmenere grape have always been fun for me. It’s one of the first grapes that I became obsessed with that no one else in my circle of drinking buddies knew anything about. It seems like I never got sick of throwing down ten bucks for a rich, fruity, spicy wine that outshined other bottles at twice the price.

With time and a more developed palate come downsides and my appreciation of most cheap Carmenere has diminished as I generally prefer wines with more acidity. I’m noticing overripe flavors more these days and generally bulk made wines are as exciting as drinking Coors Light or Bud. I know there is outstanding Chilean Carmenere in the $20-$40 price range but hey, there’s a ton of great wine around the world in that price range, so I don’t often taste at that price point.

Luckily a few bottles made their way into my possession that renewed my curiosity in Bordeaux’s forgotten grape. First off I found a bottle of Inama Carmenere Piu 2006 from the Veneto Region of Italy at Vino Aroma in Williamsville NY. Only a few days later my friends from Long Island surprised me with a bottle of Osprey’s Dominion Carmenere 2007, which is, the only New York State grown Carmenere I know of.

I recently opened up both of these bottles back to back and was blown away by the differences among them and overall when compared to Chilean Carmenere.

The Osprey’s Carmenere had a familiar tone that I got with Long Island reds and this winery specifically; that is a tight core of fruit with fresh acidity and a gentle rusticity. The blackberry aromas were pure and spicy with hints of black cherry and tobacco. There was a polished feel to this wine that gave it a universal appeal while making the case that Carmenere can work as well as Cabernet Franc on Long Island, especially in warm years like 2007.

The Inama Carmenere Piu 2006 was a different wine entirely. On the nose it showed much more funk and chocolate notes with its fruit presence of plum and black currant taking a back seat to the barnyard, smoke and tar aromas. The mouth feel was simply stunning with rustic tannins and smooth acidity that filled out the palate while sticking around long enough to leave a delicate chocolate tootsie roll meets black fruit finish.

Fruit loving drinkers will appreciate the Osprey’s for its pure fruit and luxurious structure while those that seek rustic more eccentric flavors may find the Inama to be just what they are looking for. Personally, I loved both for their original take on the grape. Both went beyond the jammy overripe traits I often find in lower priced versions. I’d love to get these wines together again and pour them with Chilean versions in the same price range and see how they go over as it looks like I’m not anywhere near done being excited about this grape.

Falesco Vitiano 2007: Italian Value Meets American Palates

Falesco Vitiano 2007
Umbria, Italy ($12)

There are countless times when you are looking for an interesting wine under $15 and get stuck with the same old mass produced California, Spanish or South American selections to choose from. Italian options in this range and style are limited to cheap Chianti, large format Montepulciano D’Abruzzo or if your lucky some decent Puglian bottles.

Unfortunately Chinati tends to be simple, Montepulciano tends to be thin and Puglian stuff can get overripe and dumb with vanilla and oak. This bottle of Falesco Vitiano is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the style of a super Tuscan that makes a case for your twelve bucks.

When I got past the initial aromas of alcohol I picked up some ripe plum, black currant, raisin and a hefty dose of vanilla. Rich and creamy on the palate with only a hint of astringency that ultimately keeps it food friendly. Overall dense and ripe without coming off as sweet, it has just enough subtle earth notes that I could peg it as Italian.

Since it’s easy on the wallet and easy to find, this wine is interesting enough for the geeks and friendly enough for newbies as it finds a happy median between old world and new. The Falesco Vitiano 2007 is where bulk wine and interesting value Italian wine come together to flirt with being overripe.

Statti Gaglioppo 2007: A Reason to Revisit the Italian Aisle

Statti Gaglioppo Rosso 2007
Calabria, Italy ($19)

Walking down the Italian red aisle at my local wine store with $20 in hand isn’t as exciting as it used to be. Let’s face it countries like Italy, France and Germany aren’t known for value. In the past my go to choices would have been Montepulciano D’Abruzzo, Salice Salentino or a decent Dolcetto but these days I’m looking to try something new and these choices just won’t cut it.

Turns out a recent stop at Premium Wine & Spirits in Williamsville, NY turned up something inspiring from Calabria as Statti’s Gaglioppo 2007 was a label I hadn’t seen before. This 12.5% alcohol by volume wine from what I consider to be one of the warmer regions of Italy was accompanied by solid reviews from Tanzer and Spectator. Looking forward to my first taste of a Gaglioppo wine, I picked it up for $19.

First off the nose hit me over the head with black raspberry, which I found extremely reminiscent of Perry’s black raspberry ice cream. As it opened up it revealed some grapey notes along with more rustic aromas of tree bark and sour cherry. Its lively acidity and rustic tannins combined in the form of some slight astringency but nothing that a proper food pairing wouldn’t appreciate. The finish was strong with a lingering bittersweet chocolate flavor.

Overall a well made wine that certainly had its own style and flavor. The astringency dissipated on day two smoothing it out and making a case for this being a wine that can stand alone. Bottles like this remind me that Italian wine can never get boring even if you’re on a modest budget.

Castello Monaci Maru Negroamaro 2007

Castello Monaci Maru Negroamaro 2007
Puglia, Italy ($14)

I got into the lusty wines of Apulia while I was living in NYC. It started with Salice Salentino before I found some amazing Copertino, both of which are based on blending Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera grapes. The combination of ripe and stewed fruit aromas with rustic grainy tannins won me over on reds from Italy’s heel.

At some point in the last few years the number of wines simply labeled Negroamaro have increased in number. The name of the grape itself translates into “bitter black” which clues you in that this is not for every palate.

After a couple years hiatus from Apulian reds, I decided to take home a bottle of Monachi Maru Negroamaro 2007. Why this producer? Well I received a kick ass Primitivo from the same producer last year and was impressed enough to remember them this time around.

Aromas of plum, black cherries, tobacco and vanilla made this wine extremely straightforward. It didn’t help that its juiciness and overall smooth feel didn’t leave anything to the imagination. Not a poor wine, but just very California in style.

I expected much more earthy notes and some  rusticity on the palate. It feels like this wine is trying to be something other than what it wants to be, but I do think this would be a great stepping stone wine for your Zin or Cab drinkers. Ultimately though someone looking for an Italian wine that wants for those raw and lusty reds from southern Italy might be disappointed with this particular bottle, especially at $14.

Fantinel Merlot 2007

Fantinel Merlot 2007
Friuli, Italy ($10)

Chances are if you see me drinking merlot it’s from one of two places…Long Island or Friuli. Sounds snobby doesn’t it? It just might but be only because I think the merlot should be grown where it’ll just have enough heat to ripen.

I’ve had some memorable Friulian merlots in the past that bring bright red fruit and that rusticity that I find so appetizing in Italian reds. If you’re looking for reds from the region you’re not going an easy time finding them. When I was in NYC, I struggled finding them, let alone where I live now…in God’s country.

So whenever I find a merlot, cabernet franc or even a red blend from Friuli, I am tempted to bring it home. When I saw this bottle of Fantinel Merlot on sale for $10, I had to give it a go. The wine is actually called “Celebrate Life” because a dollar of every sale goes towards charity. I won’t bore you with the details but it has something to do with micro-algae.

With nothing but some red cherry, thyme and vanilla aromas this wasn’t the wine I was expecting. No tar, no forest, no shrooms, no leather…it just didn’t show any complexity. A medium-thin body and light tannins made me think this wine belongs in a carafe rather than a bottle.

In my limited experience making wine, I’d say that this one suffered from over-cropping of grapes. Not a bad wine though as it wasn’t flawed but I just wouldn’t want this one to be someone’s first merlot from Friuli.

Foradori Teroldego 2002

Foradori Teroldego 2002
Trentino/Alto-Adige, Italy ($20)

Some of the sexiest grapes in the world are those that stay under the radar while retaining their expression of place. These are wines, for whatever reason, never gain popularity despite their complexity, affordability or downright sexiness. This comes easy to indigenous Italian grapes. I consider grapes like Lagrein, Refosco and Negroamaro to still be under the radar.

These days reading blogs and using search engines can tell you all you need to know about the grapes us wine geeks get all giddy for, which is in fact how I found out about the Italian grape of Teroldego. Reading a NYCR story about Red Tail Ridge Winery clued me in to another Northern Italian grape that needed tasting.

The grape is primarily grown in the Northeast Trentino/Alto-Adige area of Italy, which is considered cool climate for the country. In flavor, it’s been compared to Syrah and Zinfandel although could never be mistaken for either due to its high acidity. What contributes to the grapes “speak easy” aura is that its sole appellation of origin is Teroldigo Rotaliano D.O.C., a region that isn’t on the tongue of many wine drinkers.

I almost stayed away from this bottle of Foradori Teroldego Rotaliano 2002 because of what I know of Italian vintages. The 2002 vintage was bad for most of the country and every chart I looked at previously basically said “too late buddy.” Considering I don’t see this grape often I still through down the $20 to try a new grape.

With aromas of dried cherry, plum and tar it had a fun nose, and although pleasant, there was something about it that went into a stewed fruit aroma that makes me think it had worn out its welcome in the bottle. The color and extraction took me by surprise considering it’s a cool climate variety and the fine tannins added to the rustic feel.

Even though I wouldn’t recommend this particular bottle and vintage to a friend because of its age, I bet this wine in a recent vintage would be an eye opening experience for most of my geek friends. It’ll be exciting to see how it does in New York State if wineries are crazy enough to try it and dare I say that Toreldego on a tasting menu looks much sexier then Merlot or Lemberger.

Il Brecciarolo Rosso Piceno 2002

Il Brecciarolo Rosso Piceno Superiore 2002
Italy, Marche ($16)

This blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese from Marche is produced by Velenosi Ercole who is known to be somewhat experimental with his wines. The DOC of Rosso Piceno is located at the extreme southern part of Marche, closest to Abruzzo. It is here that producers see the montepulciano grape as more than just a bulk table wine varietal. A maximum of 70% montepulciano can be used in this DOC blend. This wine has been aged in one year of oak.

Ruby red with aromas of cherries, licorice, and a touch of leather. Only slightly tannic with a cleansing acidity that makes this a great dinner wine. Well balanced and supple on the palate. The finish is fresh and fruity. Definetly more refined than any of the pure Montepulcianos I've drank. The price point takes it out of my table wine arsenal but I can see it as a weekday treat on occasion with my meat ragu. My grade: B

Taurino Salice Salentino Reserve 2000

Taurino Salice Salentino Reserve 2000

Italy, Puglia, Salento ($10)

I’m becoming predictable. Another southern Italian red. This one comes from a respectable producer and it is readily available in the states. From all I’ve read, 2000 in southern Italy was a great year and this wine benefited from the growing season. It’s 85% Negroamaro and the rest Malvasia Nera, a typical blend for a Salice Salentino.

Ruby red color with light brown edges. Aromas of cherries and herbs. Soft tannins and medium body. Rustic earthy palate with plum and wild berry notes. Long finish that shows some pepper and licorice. Not as good as my favorite, “Agricole Vallone” 2000, but a good pick at this price of $10. My grade: B

Fassati Selciaia Rosso 2004

Selciaia Rosso di Montepulicano 2004
Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano ($10)

If I have to wait more than 30 minutes for a delivery pizza I prefer to place the order, then walk to the corner liquor store for a bottle. Most likely I will be looking for an Italian red under $10. I don't like any of the Montepulciano D'Abruzzo bottles at this particular store so that takes care of that. A best buy Chianti would do but there's nothing exciting about that. This time I was torn between a Nero d'Avola or a new addition there of a Rosso Di Montepulciano. I've commonly seen Vino Noble Di Montepulciano around but the plain old rosso version is something I don't usually find.

This Tuscan Sangiovese based red was aged in French oak barriques for 120 days. The name Selciaia comes from the flinty soils located at the family-owned Fassati vineyard estate. The label looks respectable enough. It says this wine pairs well with red meats, game, pasta with meat sauces, and cheeses. I had ordered a "grandma" style tray cheese pizza from the local pizza joint. I think this wine wanted a meaty topping though.

Ruby red in color. Aroma of cherries primarily. Somewhat fizzy texture I assume comes from its youth. Ripe red fruit flavor with notes of licorice. The taste is overly tart and not very complex. Short finish that left me wondering If I should have stayed away from such a young vintage. My grade: C+