Water into Wino

Atwater Dry Riesling 2007

Atwater Dry Riesling 2007
Finger Lakes, New York ($17)

There are just too many stunning Rieslings being made in the Finger Lakes to keep track of these days. Even though producers like Wiemer, Dr. Frank and Anthony Road tend to get the loudest press there are dozens of wineries making world-class versions in every style imaginable.

My past perception of Atwater is that they are a consistent producer that does everything well while not having one headlining wine or line of wines. If it weren’t for this bottle being sent as a part of several Taste NY samples, I probably would have over looked it on the shelf.

Pale gold in the glass, this Riesling jumps out of the glass with mandarin orange, peach and lime with some light petrol notes. For lack of a better description, the nose to me was very German. Fresh and lively on the palate with refreshing acidity in the package of a supple mouth feel. It finishes clean and delicious.

I was very impressed with this Atwater wine. Combining intense aromas, fresh acidity and a delicate palate this wine showed some serious structure. At this point the petrol notes are well incorporated but they may become off putting in time though. We’ll have to wait and see. In a playing field of many great Rieslings this one still shows that it can compete with the rest in the region, adding Atwater to the list of producers I mentioned at the top of this post.

Lamoreaux Landing T23 Cabernet Franc 2007

Lamoreaux Landing T23 Cabernet Franc 2007
Finger Lakes, New York ($14)

My recent foray into winemaking has given me plenty of experience drinking unoaked Cabernet Franc as most of my batches are less than sixty gallons. I’m always looking for comparable wines as a reference so picking up this Lamoreaux Landing T23 Cabernet Franc 2007 was a no brainer. The aspiring vigneron in me wanted to know what this grape, grown in the Finger Lakes, in a hot vintage and left unoaked would taste like.

The wine revealed a light ruby color, with aromas of cherries and violets. After a few hours it began to show some bell pepper aromas as well, but certainly not right after uncorking. On the palate, this wine was soft and supple and this the first time I can call a wine “easy going” thanks in part to its round structure. Its gentle finish wasn’t complex but it did leave you wanting another sip.

There was also a definite perception of sweetness that I can only guess is the addition of residual sugar. This may have ultimately contributed to its feeling of balance but my interest in tasting a wine unobstructed by oak was now seemingly influenced by some “pushing” of the fruit.

From what I’ve read this wine has been quite popular and I can see why. It’s probably the same reason why so many Parisians enjoy a glass of cab franc at the local bistro. It’s easily quaffable, light and delicate enough to ponder on its own or with any number of food pairings. It makes me think that maybe in the future, restaurants in New York will carry local unoaked Cab Francs as house wines, served in a pitcher and drank from a tumbler. My grade: 2.5/5